![]() pop-ups and a month of walk-up lunch service, on Sept. Visitors are skewing younger and travel publications eagerly note each new opening.Īfter a summer of L.A. The rolling hills and acres of grapevines splayed out in the sunlight for miles along the Central Coast look, more or less, like they did decades ago, but the methods used at some of the wineries are leaning more low-intervention or experimental. Perhaps longtime locals were misrepresented.īut one thing is certain: The Santa Ynez Valley is changing, and Bar Le Côte’s blend of old and new is, in a way, a microcosm of the area’s evolving identity, filling a 1901-built former mercantile structure along the old stagecoach route with new faces, new-school fish-aging technique and rising culinary talent. ![]() It could be that the success of Bell’s seafood can be chalked up to the influx of new residents or the droves of Angelenos heading for the destination restaurant. Now, as the Ryans open Bar Le Côte - a modern seafood tavern along the main drag of historic Los Olivos, a former stagecoach town just a 12-minute drive from Bell’s - they, with chef and co-owner Brad Mathews, are banking on oysters, uni, octopus and gulf shrimp. At a certain point we were like, ‘This just isn’t true.’” “We put tinned sardines on the menu and we couldn’t keep them in. ![]() But “every fish dish, every week, when we were an a la carte restaurant, sold out,” Greg said. They’d been warned against serving seafood the locals, they were told, preferred meat and were set in their ways. The restaurateur saw it in 2018 when he opened Bell’s, a French-leaning bistro in Los Alamos, with his wife and the restaurant’s chef, Daisy Ryan. There’s a rumor that Greg Ryan wants to clear up: The residents of the Santa Ynez Valley do, in fact, love seafood. ![]()
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